Alongside pho, bun cha, and banh cuon, a fish noodle soup stall has for the first time entered the Michelin Guide. This is Canh ca ro Hieu Luc, located at a kiosk on Hai Ba Trung street. This Hung Yen specialty stall joined the Michelin Selected 2025 list in June.

The stall measures approximately 20 square meters, with nearly 10 tables indoors and an equal number on the sidewalk. Michelin describes it as a Hung Yen specialty stall, offering a dish that "combines vermicelli/noodles, crispy fried rohu fish, chewy fish cakes, a rich broth, green mustard greens, and spring onions, delivering a sweet and savory taste."

Owner Nguyen Thi Tuyen, born in 1991, is originally from My Hao, Hung Yen. She and her husband moved to Hanoi to start a business more than 10 years ago. The couple first opened a eatery selling banh mi chao before switching to canh ca ro in 2018, renting their current location on Hai Ba Trung street.

Tuyen shared that her journey to traditional rohu fish soup began serendipitously after watching a culinary program on television.

Unfamiliar with Michelin, Tuyen initially thought she "was being tricked" when she received an invitation to Da Nang to accept an award. She only believed it after researching and receiving a confirmation link from a regular customer.

She framed the invitation and hung it in the stall, expressing regret that she could not attend the awards ceremony. She mentioned that after the stall was included in the Michelin Selected list, many customers came to congratulate her.

The stall uses farmed rohu fish because wild rohu fish supply is insufficient, Tuyen explained. The fish must meet specific standards: "square heads, firm, fragrant flesh," with approximately 15 fish per kg. Each day, the stall uses 150-200 kg of fish, requiring three employees to prepare it from 4h for three to four hours.

Instead of grilling over charcoal as is common in Hung Yen, Tuyen opted for pan-frying due to limited space. She stated that this method "still preserves the fresh sweetness of the fish meat."

The broth is simmered for 10-12 hours from the previous day over low heat. The soup is made from deboned fish frames and other types of fish bones; the stall does not use pork bones, MSG, or artificial sweeteners.

In Hung Yen, this dish traditionally features only vermicelli and white banh da (wide rice noodles). Upon opening her stall in Hanoi, Tuyen added red banh da to cater to the preferences of more diners. The accompanying vegetables are finely chopped green mustard greens and spring onions.

The fish cakes are made in-house, shaped into pieces with a diameter of 3-4 cm. When served, the cakes are cut into bite-sized pieces or left whole, depending on the customer's request. Customers can also purchase fish cakes to take home.

After the broth is added, the bowl of vermicelli/banh da should be eaten immediately to maintain its heat and prevent the noodles from clumping. The broth is lightly sweet with a rich aftertaste, suitable for all ages.

Tran Thi Hue, in her 70s, has been a regular customer since the stall opened. "I like this dish, probably because it suits my taste," she said, adding that she eats there three to four times a week.

The stall operates from 6h to 20h30, usually busy in the morning and at lunchtime. A bowl costs from 45,000 VND, and iced tea is 5,000 VND.

Parking in this area is limited. During peak hours, customers may wait about 15 minutes for service.

Tuyen reported that customer numbers increased by about 10% after the Michelin recognition, including many foreigners and tourists from other provinces. "Some even brought pictures of the stall saved on their phones, coming to verify if it was the right place before eating," she recounted.

She also acknowledged an "invisible pressure," worrying when customers might find the food "not to their liking and complain." Tuyen stated she is concerned about maintaining consistent quality and plans to open another stall in a nearby area.

Tam Anh

Photos: Hoang Giang