The fragrant 'nep cai hoa vang' glutinous rice is soaked overnight, washed, and then steamed for 30-35 minutes. The steamed rice needs to be cooked just right: not too soft to prevent the sauce from turning black, and not too hard to avoid sourness. Once cooked, the rice is spread out on bamboo trays to cool.

84-year-old Ngo Xuan Trieu (right) is the 4th generation in his family to carry on the soy sauce-making tradition. A retired soldier, Mr. Trieu worked various jobs before inheriting the family business in 1984. "The market was tough in the beginning," Mr. Trieu recalls, "It wasn't until the economy opened up that the business could expand."

Ban village, located in My Hao commune, Hung Yen province, has a soy sauce-making history dating back over 700 years. Legend has it that the product was presented to the king as early as the 13th century. Ban soy sauce gained widespread popularity and commercial success in the early 20th century.

The rice trays are stored in incubation rooms, maintained at 30-35 degrees Celsius to encourage mold growth.

According to Mr. Trieu, the ingredients for soy sauce are readily available but require careful selection. The glutinous rice must be the fragrant 'nep cai hoa vang' variety; the soybeans must be the small, plump, yellow-cored 're' type, grown in alluvial soil; the salt must come from the Hai Hau sea region in Ninh Binh province. The fermentation jars must be made of glazed earthenware from Nho Quan (Ninh Binh), and the jar lids from Tho Ha village (Bac Giang). The water must be drawn from the Dan well within the village, renowned for its clarity and sweetness.

The process begins by roasting soybeans until cooked, grinding them, and then soaking them in water for one week.

After about two days, the rice is taken out and loosened to promote white mold growth. The incubation process continues for another 2-4 days, depending on the weather, until the mold turns a yellowish color.

Once the mold reaches the desired stage, the artisans begin the "nga tuong" (mixing) process. For each 100-liter jar, the ratio is 30 kg of molded rice, 10 kg of ground soybeans, and 15 kg of salt. Everything is thoroughly mixed.

For the first month, the mixture in each jar is stirred every morning to submerge the solids and allow the sauce to rise to the top. During rainy weather, the jars are sealed tightly to prevent white film from forming on the surface.

Mr. Trieu's facility houses around 1,500 earthenware jars, each decades old. In the past, the family hired 20-30 workers. Now, thanks to machinery for steaming rice, roasting soybeans, and washing jars, the work is less strenuous and more efficient. The workshop currently has over 10 permanent employees, many of whom have been working there for 7-10 years.

The soy sauce needs to be sun-dried for 3-4 months to mature. At this point, it thickens, develops a golden color, and releases its characteristic aroma. Insufficient sunlight results in a grainy texture and less flavorful sauce.

According to Mr. Trieu, weather is the key factor determining the quality of the soy sauce. "The stronger the sun, the more golden, thicker, and faster the sauce matures," he explains. Weak sunlight leads to a darker color, less aroma, and slower maturation. Therefore, Ban villagers typically focus on soy sauce production during the summer and autumn months.

Soy sauce making in Ban village, My Hao commune, remains a family tradition. Currently, about 17 households continue the craft, mostly on a small scale. A few establishments with long-standing traditions, like Mr. Trieu's, have expanded to larger operations.

Mr. Trieu's family's soy sauce-making legacy has reached the 5th generation, with his grandchildren also willing to inherit the business. He acknowledges the hard work involved, admitting that the demanding nature of the craft can discourage younger generations.

However, it's this very craft that has supported his family and enabled his children's education. "That's why, no matter what, we must preserve this family tradition," he affirms.

Nga Thanh - Quynh Nguyen