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Tuesday, 23/9/2025 | 12:02 GMT+7

The arduous journey to Mu Cang Chai's golden season

To witness Mu Cang Chai's golden rice season, many tourists endured traffic jams, makeshift meals, and even missed their return trips.

In late September, Mu Cang Chai (Lao Cai) enters its golden rice season. The breathtaking terraced fields attract a large number of tourists, leading to long traffic jams on many roads, fully booked accommodations, and overloaded food services.

Vang A Thao, a local guide, said the number of visitors to Mu Cang Chai has increased dramatically. "Weekend traffic increases by about 400% compared to weekdays, many times higher than the 2/9 holiday," he said.

Tourists check in at Mong Ngua Hill on 21/9. Video: Vang A Thao

From September 19th to 21st, tourists flocked to popular viewing spots like Mong Ngua Hill, Mam Xoi Lon (Big Raspberry Hill), Mam Xoi Nho (Small Raspberry Hill), and the bamboo forest, causing traffic congestion. Nguyen Tran Hoai Thuong, 33, shared her "unforgettable" experience of missing her bus back to Hanoi on the afternoon of 21/9 after being stuck on Mong Ngua Hill for over two hours.

"My travel plans were disrupted, and I had to stay an extra night in Mu Cang Chai to catch the early bus the next day," Thuong lamented.

Kim Yen checks in at Mu Cang Chai's terraced fields on 19/9. Photo: NVCC

Traffic jam at Mong Ngua Hill at 8 PM on 20/9. Photo: Vang A Thao

Tourists check in at Mam Xoi Hill. Photo: Duyen Hai

Photographer Nguyen Khanh Vu Khoa, a frequent visitor to Mu Cang Chai during the golden season, commented that this was the first time he had witnessed such an unexpectedly large number of tourists. Khoa stated that drivers encroaching on lanes and refusing to yield to each other were the main causes of the prolonged traffic jams.

Besides difficult travel, dining also posed a challenge. Ngoc Trang from Hung Yen said that after finishing her visit to Mam Xoi Lon at 11 AM, she couldn't find a place to have lunch in Mu Cang Chai commune.

"Every restaurant was full and not accepting customers, with cars lining up on the road. Our group had to return to our homestay and eat instant noodles," Trang said.

The allure of the golden season has led to fully booked accommodations. La Pan Tan Paradise, a local resort with 5 rooms, has been fully booked from early September to the end of October. A representative of Top View La Pan Tan, with 20 rooms, said they have been fully booked since 2/9 and currently have no vacancies on weekends until mid-October.

"On 20/9, many guests were still calling to book rooms past 11 PM, but we had none left," the Top View La Pan Tan representative said.

Due to the crowds, tourists had to choose more remote rice paddies for photos. This is also a common trend among experienced travelers. Instead of crowding popular spots, they seek out lesser-known villages like Song Lung Khung Long (Dinosaur's Backbone), Hang Mang De (Goat's Jaw), and Kim Noi.

Hai Yen, from TP HCM, said she chose to visit Mu Cang Chai during the week instead of the weekend for a more rewarding experience. According to Yen, remote locations like Song Lung Khung Long and Kim Noi village were less crowded, allowing for comfortable rice paddy viewing and photography, despite being further from the town center.

According to A Chay, a local guide, the reason for the surge in tourists this year is due to people making up for missing out last year. Many missed the 2024 golden season when Typhoon Yagi brought prolonged rain and floods in September.

A Chay advises tourists to choose accommodations in areas further away from the popular viewing points, such as the Khao Pha pass and Kim Noi area, for easier booking and more convenient travel.

With a total area of approximately 2,200 hectares of terraced fields, including 330 hectares recognized as a special national scenic site, Mu Cang Chai is known as the "terraced field paradise" amidst the northwestern mountains. The two most beautiful seasons here are the water pouring season (May-June) and the ripe rice season (September-October), coinciding with the rice production cycle of the H'Mong people.

The increasing popularity of the "golden season" is both an advantage and a challenge for local tourism. Many suggest that expanding services, developing new attractions, and dispersing tourist flow will enhance the visitor experience while preserving Mu Cang Chai's sustainable beauty.

Tuan Anh

By VnExpress: https://vnexpress.net/chuyen-di-kho-san-mua-vang-mu-cang-chai-4942277.html
Tags: Lao Cai Mu Cang Chai golden season Mu Cang Chai Tourism Mu Cang Chai

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