"It all felt like destiny," says 24-year-old Katrina Audet, a French citizen living in Quebec, Canada.
In mid-February, she embarked on a solo backpacking trip through Southeast Asia, starting in Vietnam. A motorcycle accident cut her month-long visa short, preventing her from traveling the full length of the country. As her visa neared expiration, she remembered a recommendation to experience the Ha Giang loop.
Known among backpacking enthusiasts as "the most beautiful route in Southeast Asia," the 350 km Ha Giang loop winds through four districts of the former Ha Giang province. Beginning in Quan Ba, it passes through Yen Minh, Dong Van, and Meo Vac before returning to Quan Ba. The route traverses dramatic landscapes of mountains, high passes, deep valleys, geological faults, and canyons, notably Ma Pi Leng, one of Vietnam's four great mountain passes. It also passes through areas inhabited by 22 ethnic minority groups, each with its own unique culture.
Determined to experience this iconic route, Katrina flew to Singapore to obtain a new visa for Vietnam before continuing her journey to Thailand, Laos, the Philippines, and Indonesia.
At the end of March, Katrina began her first Ha Giang loop adventure, where she met her tour guide, 22-year-old Thao A Do from Lao Cai. She was immediately captivated by the kind smile of the unassuming Hmong man.
Initially disappointed not to be in Do's tour group, Katrina found opportunities to connect with him at their shared homestay and during rest stops, taking every chance to chat and get closer.
On their second night, they sang karaoke and took their first photo together. The following day, Katrina spontaneously invited Do for a walk. Amidst the misty night in Ha Giang, they strolled, talked, and shared their first kiss.
At the end of the tour, Do hugged Katrina goodbye, and she quickly kissed him on the cheek. A silent understanding passed between them: they didn't want to part ways.
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Katrina Audet and her boyfriend during their first meeting in Ha Giang. Photo courtesy of the subjects |
Katrina Audet and her boyfriend during their first meeting in Ha Giang. Photo courtesy of the subjects
Leaving Ha Giang for Sa Pa, Katrina felt a heavy sadness, believing she wouldn't see Do again. But 20 minutes later, a message from him changed everything, prompting her to return to Ha Giang.
On 4/4, Katrina embarked on her second Ha Giang loop, this time with Do as her guide and driver. They made the most of every stop, talking extensively. Katrina even skipped some tour activities to spend more time with him.
"We were like two kids when we were together," she said. They used Google Translate to deepen their conversations, and Katrina learned about Do's interests and life in his hometown of Sa Pa. She realized he was the kindest and most thoughtful person she had ever met. "I knew I could see a serious future with this man," she said.
After her second trip, Katrina continued to Cao Bang as planned, but couldn't shake her thoughts of Do. Despite her hesitation, fearing others might think her "crazy," she decided to embark on a third Ha Giang loop.
Katrina realized she was deeply in love with Do and the culture he came from. She appreciated the Vietnamese custom of waving hello and the feeling of safety, even walking alone at night.
Recognizing she couldn't keep taking the Ha Giang loop just to see Do, Katrina applied to volunteer at his company. This would allow them to spend time together outside of tours.
With the company's approval, they eagerly anticipated working together. However, Katrina realized her visa was expiring in four days. She flew to Thailand to secure her third Vietnamese visa.
On 8/5, Katrina returned to Vietnam, reuniting with Do. He took time off to show her Hoang Su Phi and Sa Pa. Upon their return, Katrina began her new life in Ha Giang.
Volunteering in the evenings, she greeted returning tour groups and assisted with preparations for the next day's departures. Her duties included managing the reception desk, answering questions, and dining with guests to share insights about the Ha Giang loop.
The entire company supported their relationship. Do's manager adjusted his schedule to three-day tours instead of four, giving them more time together. They also allowed Katrina to finish work early whenever Do returned from a tour.
"I followed my heart and I've never regretted it," Katrina said. And she knew Do felt the same.
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Thao A Do and Katrina Audet in Ha Giang. Photo courtesy of the subjects |
Thao A Do and Katrina Audet in Ha Giang. Photo courtesy of the subjects
On 3/6, during Katrina's fourth Ha Giang loop experience, Do proposed. She accepted. "We're living happily and cherish every day together," she shared.
Katrina loves the tranquility of Ha Giang's mountains. Each morning, she takes breakfast orders, manages the reception desk, and assists tour participants. She typically finishes work at 9 a.m., enjoys coffee and walks until 4 p.m., before starting her evening shift. On Do's days off, they savor simple pleasures: visiting cafes, taking walks, playing cards, sharing a beer, and singing karaoke.
She cherishes their lunches with Vietnamese colleagues. "Close and unpretentious, they treat each other like a big family," she said. "That's truly precious."
Trinh Van Duc, 21, a colleague, has witnessed their relationship firsthand. Duc describes them as patient, attentive, and caring towards each other in even the smallest gestures. The company has also provided Katrina with food and accommodation.
"They've overcome language and geographical barriers to be together," Duc said. "Everyone truly admires their love story."
Ngoc Ngan