Designer Veronique Nichanian bids farewell to her role as artistic director for menswear with the fall/winter 2026 collection. She has been dedicated to shaping the image of the elegant, individualistic Hermes gentleman since 1988.

For this new collection, the designer chose the concept of "Habiter le temps" (dwelling in time) as her guiding principle. This serves as a reminder that clothing is, in essence, a living space where a man finds peaceful refuge, consistently stepping forward on new journeys.

The collection features designs that convey a message transcending seasonal fashion concepts, fostering a long-lasting connection with the wearer's journey. The philosophy of "Lignes claires" (clear lines) is evident in the precise forms of jackets and suits.

Nichanian redefines patterns through the concept of "Le dessin comme matiere" (seeing pattern as material). Classic pinstripes are applied to soft, light calfskin, transforming geometric lines into a natural part of the leather's surface, while also pushing the boundaries of traditional craftsmanship.

A leather suit with pinstripe patterns blurs the lines between the rigidity of suit construction and the supple, sensual nature of leather, easily integrating with warm wool materials.

Pinstripe patterns are also featured on another sweater design in the collection.

Rigid reptile skin patterns form the structure of a two-piece suit, yet maintain softness. When worn, the gentleman does not feel the weight of the garment but rather the gentle embrace of a second skin, thanks to meticulously calculated, ultralight lining structures.

The allure of Hermes under Nichanian has always been subtle. The concept of "Details egoïstes" (selfish details) continues to be honored. These include seams hidden behind the collar, or off-center patch pockets that create a unique visual rhythm.

The philosophy of "L’envers beau comme l’endroit" (the reverse as beautiful as the front) is also applied in the designs. A wool and cashmere coat can be worn on two sides, showcasing the beauty of natural fibers. Notably, the introduction of Toilovent - an ultralight technical fabric used to line nappa lambskin - offers a contrasting experience.

The Hermes cold-weather wardrobe employs a diverse, deep color palette, revolving around ink blue, dark gray, peat brown, and licorice black. These hues evoke a sense of calm and comfort, reminiscent of late-year nature without feeling heavy. The subtlety lies in how Nichanian skillfully adds vibrant color blocks as accents, balancing and guiding the viewer's emotions. Hidden beneath subdued tones like hussard blue or peat brown is a warm coral red lining, creating an unexpected highlight.

Pops of color like saffron yellow, moss green, or bordeaux red appear on intarsia scarves and bouclette sweaters, creating striking accents amidst the neutral palette. They lessen the overall stillness, bringing a lively feel to winter attire. The color transition from Maldives blue to Toscana terracotta embodies a spirit of freedom and expansiveness.

Alongside apparel and scarves, Hermes' renowned Plume bag design is re-envisioned with a "cooler" version, the Fourre-Tout On Radio. These are inspired by boombox players or are enhanced with convenient storage compartments.

Designer Veronique Nichanian (in white) backstage at her final show for Hermes. With this collection, she officially concludes her journey leading Hermes menswear. She will be replaced by young designer Grace Wales Bonner.

Hai My

Photos: Hermes

In Vietnam, the Hermes brand is officially distributed by Cong ty Quoc te Tam Son.