Ben Groundwater, a Sydney-based tourist, arrived in Ho Chi Minh City in late March for a two-day culinary adventure before embarking on a boat trip to Phnom Penh, Cambodia. With limited time in Vietnam, Groundwater's mission was to savor as many local specialties as possible, drawn by the city's abundant and affordable culinary offerings.

On his first evening, after checking into his hotel, Groundwater made a beeline for Quan An Co Lien, a quintessential Saigon eatery. The restaurant featured a charcoal grill, a display case of ingredients, simple furniture, and a bustling atmosphere. He sampled the restaurant's signature dish, bo la lot – minced beef seasoned and wrapped in lo lot leaves, grilled over charcoal, and served with fresh herbs, pickled vegetables, and rice paper.

Groundwater described the blend of sweet, sour, salty, and smoky flavors as "the perfect introduction to Vietnamese cuisine." The portion size, he noted, was ideal, leaving room for his second culinary conquest of the evening: banh mi.

Banh mi Huynh Hoa is filled with cold cuts, pate, mayonnaise, shredded pork floss, and sausages. Photo: Quynh Tran

Banh mi Huynh Hoa is filled with cold cuts, pate, mayonnaise, shredded pork floss, and sausages. Photo: Quynh Tran

Just steps away from Quan An Co Lien, Groundwater found Banh Mi Huynh Hoa. He ordered a banh mi filled with various cold cuts, pate, mayonnaise, pickled daikon radish and carrots. He was particularly impressed with the shredded pork floss, describing it as "an explosion of flavor."

Waking up at 7 a.m. on his second day, Groundwater's first thought was of breakfast. With his impending departure for Phnom Penh, he was determined to experience the iconic Vietnamese dish: pho.

"There's nothing quite like sitting at a rickety wooden table amidst the morning crowd, the motorbike fumes seemingly disappearing into the aroma of basil and the fragrant broth in front of you," Groundwater shared, reflecting on his pho experience.

Having tried pho numerous times before, Groundwater's passion for the dish was reignited at Pho Phu Vuong. The restaurant, while not the fanciest in Ho Chi Minh City, captivated him with its efficient service and simple decor. He declared that there's no better way to start the day than with a delicious bowl of pho.

Groundwater ranked pho as his top breakfast choice on his social media. Photo: Instagram/Ben Groundwater

Groundwater ranked pho as his top breakfast choice on his social media. Photo: Instagram/Ben Groundwater

Ca phe sua da (Vietnamese iced coffee with milk) became Groundwater's beverage of choice, which he deemed "the second-best way to start the day," after pho.

Continuing his 48-hour food tour, Groundwater visited a small eatery to try bun rieu cua. He described the dish, with its tomato and crab broth, rice vermicelli noodles, crab cakes, pork, banana blossoms, herbs, and congealed pig's blood, as "not for the faint of heart." "It definitely woke me up," he commented after finishing the bowl.

For dinner, Groundwater opted for banh canh cua at Banh Canh Cua 87 in the city center. He enjoyed the chewy tapioca noodles in a thick, seafood-rich broth.

The next day, Groundwater once again chose pho for breakfast. Before leaving for Cambodia, he managed to squeeze in one last dish: banh cuon tom thit (steamed rice rolls with shrimp and pork). After his intensive 48-hour culinary journey, Groundwater expressed satisfaction with his Vietnamese food experience, with pho remaining his top culinary discovery.

Anh Minh (Traveller)