At the end of Hang Vai street, where it intersects with Phung Hung street in Hoan Kiem district, two pho restaurants, Pho Khoi Hoi and Pho Lam Hang Vai, have gained renown in Hanoi over the years. Both are featured on the Bib Gourmand list of the world-renowned Michelin Guide, a distinction awarded to restaurants offering high-quality food at reasonable prices. Pho Khoi was added to the list in 2024, and Pho Lam joined this year.

Tenderloin pho is considered a specialty at both restaurants. Many patrons use the phrase "Hang Vai tenderloin pho" to refer to both Lam and Khoi. Despite this shared specialty, each restaurant has its unique characteristics and loyal customer base.

Pho Lam, located at number 48, has been open for over 30 years. The restaurant operates daily from 5:30 am to 10:00 am, often selling out early on weekends. The restaurant occupies the owner's house, with enough space for 6 or 7 tables inside and 2 or 3 tables on the sidewalk outside. The owner, Mr. Bao Lam, inherited the restaurant from his father and now manages the overall operations and handles the finances.

Tenderloin pho (the inner part of the beef sirloin) is the restaurant's signature dish and the most popular. Tenderloin costs around 500,000 VND per kilogram. It is rich in tendons, has a crunchy texture, is sweet, and not tough. Typically, the tenderloin at Pho Lam sells out within about three hours of opening.

Mr. Lam also added that staff must be experienced in slicing the meat, using a sharp knife and precise cuts. The meat slices should be neither too thin nor too thick and are only briefly blanched. Besides tenderloin, the restaurant also offers a full range of beef cuts such as rare, well-done, brisket, tendon, and fatty brisket (another popular choice).

The broth is clear, mildly sweet, and fragrant, unlike the richer, more intense broths found in Nam Dinh pho. The noodles are traditional Hanoi-style, thick, and firm. Each bowl of pho ranges from 40,000 VND to 100,000 VND.

Pho Khoi Hoi, located at number 50, has also been operating for about 30 years. The restaurant has moved locations 4 or 5 times, from Hang Bong street, Phung Hung street, Lan Ong street, and finally to Hang Vai street in 2004. The restaurant is often frequented by the former coach of the national soccer team, Mr. Park Hang Seo of South Korea, and some of his players.

The restaurant is named after its owner, Khoi. Mr. Khoi still runs the kitchen, along with 3 or 4 staff members who rotate between preparing ingredients, taking orders, slicing meat, and blanching the pho.

Tenderloin and crispy fatty brisket pho are the two most popular dishes at Pho Khoi. The restaurant also offers rare, well-done, brisket, rare tenderloin rolls, pan-fried beef, and beef stew pho. The fatty brisket is simmered for three hours and sliced using a machine to ensure thin, even slices that remain intact when served.

Pho Khoi is known for its rich and flavorful broth and soft noodles. The broth is simmered from bones for over 20 hours, along with traditional spices and a secret recipe. For over 30 years, the taste of the pho has remained unchanged since the restaurant first opened. "The recipe has been used since the subsidy period," Mr. Khoi said.

The restaurant's interior is small, with space for 5 tables, accommodating 20 diners at a time. Most customers choose to sit on the sidewalk for more space. Pho Khoi is open from 6:00 am to 9:00 pm. Each bowl of pho is priced from 45,000 VND to 90,000 VND. In the afternoon and evening, the restaurant also serves stir-fried pho, stir-fried noodles, fried rice, and beef hotpot.

Duy Khanh and Minh Tam, both 22 and from Long Bien district, frequently visit Pho Lam for its rich flavor. "This year, the restaurant being recommended by Michelin gives us another reason to introduce our friends and family to it," Khanh said.

Both pho restaurants are very busy, always full from 8:00 am to 10:00 am on weekends. Customers often have to queue for 15-20 minutes, sit at neighboring businesses, or wait at the cafes across the street. Parking is limited, and customers often have to park on Phung Hung street or Hang Ga street, or keep an eye on their bikes parked along the sidewalk while eating.

Tam Anh

Photo: Hoang Giang