On the evening of 2/8, Chung Thanh Phong unveiled his CTP No.3 collection to nearly 400 guests. Inspired by mutant orchids, the show highlighted the designer's advanced garment construction techniques and significant investment in the presentation.
Around 19h50, as the lights dimmed, Miss Hoang Thuy emerged from a giant flower at the center of the stage to applause. The presentation was divided into two parts: starting with ready-to-wear pieces, then transitioning to handcrafted Haute Couture gowns, each requiring hundreds of hours to create.
Chung Thanh Phong brought his 'orchid planet' theme to life with orchid and volcano models on the catwalk. He envisioned a planet where orchid forms continuously multiply, evolve, and transform according to their own rules. 100 models showcased 100 unique designs, each with distinct silhouettes and structures, symbolizing the diverse "residents" of this world.
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Ready-to-wear designs from the show’s first segment. Photo: Tee Le Team |
Ready-to-wear designs from the show’s first segment. Photo: Tee Le Team
The primary silhouettes were developed from the structure of orchid petals and the contours of the female body. The curves, bloom, and movement of a flower were translated into form-fitting shapes, soft draping, and reinforced by 3D corsets for shaping.
The "mutant" aesthetic was evident not only in the orchid petals adorning the garments but also in the structure, materials, and surface treatments. The transformative process of mutant orchids was also conveyed through asymmetrical techniques and reflective details.
To create striking contrast, delicate materials like voile, lace, and silk were paired with cold, sharp, and rigid elements such as metal and sequins. Liquid silk, known for its superior drape and light-catching ability compared to regular silk, gave the impression of fluid movement with the body. The designer also used color-shifting techniques to add depth to the flowers. Multiple layers of petals, each with varying shades and material densities, helped the flowers catch light and cast shadows under continuously changing stage lights.
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Many designs featured complex structures, materials, intricate shaping, and meticulous embellishments, requiring hundreds of hours to complete. Photo: Tee Le Team |
Many designs featured complex structures, materials, intricate shaping, and meticulous embellishments, requiring hundreds of hours to complete. Photo: Tee Le Team
The most valuable part of CTP No.3 comprised the 12 designs that concluded the show. Among them was a bell-shaped creation adorned with thousands of crystals and cut-outs on both sides of the waist, modeled by supermodel Lan Khue. This collection took approximately one year to complete, involving over 200 artisans in complex manual processes, from shaping and embroidery to embellishment.
According to the designer, the greatest challenge of draping, a technique he heavily utilized in the collection, was balancing the fabric's natural flow with its ability to hold its shape. The principle ensuring that these technical layers did not appear heavy or ostentatious was to simplify the garment structure when embellishments were prominent, and vice versa. "A design truly worthy of being called Haute Couture is not just about the hours of embroidery, but about the craftsmanship, precision, material handling, and personal creative imprint – something CTP No.3 staked on this show," he stated.
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The runway simulated a fictional orchid planet, featuring a giant orchid model. Photo: Tee Le Team |
The runway simulated a fictional orchid planet, featuring a giant orchid model. Photo: Tee Le Team
Beyond the garments, the show also impressed with its stage direction. The centerpiece of the "Orchid Planet" was an eight-meter-high, ten-meter-wide flower, constructed from shaped foam, composite, putty, and metal. It operated with a motor system, allowing its petals to move rhythmically throughout the show. The model weighed approximately 1,4 tons and was installed on a load-bearing frame capable of supporting up to 10 tons. The entire stage was erected in four days, from 29/7 to 1/8, with two continuous nights of construction, involving a team of over 80 personnel responsible for assembling the models, stage, and lighting.
Models closing Chung Thanh Phong's show. Video: Y Ly
After an eight-year hiatus from directing fashion shows, Pham Hoang Nam returned with an artistic approach, focusing on the overall narrative, rhythm, space, and emotion. The runway was designed as a performance piece with a clear beginning, development, and climax. Under his direction, light became a storytelling language, transforming the perception of colors and materials at each moment. The lighting palette followed the orchid's metamorphosis, from mysterious purple to soft pink and white, then to vibrant yellow.
The music, created by music director Trang Phap and producer Hino, aimed to seamlessly connect fashion, stage, lighting, and emotion into a cohesive experience. Under the guidance of image director Tee Le, each model received unique makeup and hairstyling to match the collection's individualistic spirit. The show also invested in the red carpet experience, deploying various modern cameras and photography setups across five different photo zones to capture guests from every angle. The most prominent feature was a staircase corner with a LED screen tens of meters long behind it, mimicking an international red carpet scene with lenses from reporters, paparazzi, and security personnel.
A 50-meter catwalk, nearly 100 designs, and over 500 personnel, including artisans, stage construction teams, lighting crews, and logistics staff, contributed to creating the show. This scale is rarely seen in a domestic individual fashion show.
Y Ly
