Peter Boardman, 31, and Joe Tasker, 33, were highly experienced mountaineers at the peak of their careers. They were part of a small British expedition led by Sir Chris Bonington, a legendary climber who had conquered Everest in 1975. Their ill-fated attempt on 17/5/1982 aimed to conquer Everest's Northeast Ridge without bottled oxygen, a decision Bonington later admitted was dangerous.

The climbers embarked on the Northeast Ridge, a "nightmare" route guarded by the Three Pinnacles, entering Everest's "death zone" — the area above 8.000 m. In this unforgiving environment, characterized by extreme cold, low oxygen, and high winds, human survival without supplemental oxygen is limited to one to two days.

Their chosen route differed significantly from the standard North Face ascent, which typically begins from North Col (approximately 7.000 m). The standard path bypasses the Three Pinnacles and follows a less technical route, reducing the risks to reach the summit.

Mountaineers Boardman and Tasker. Photo: Goodreads

Mountaineers Boardman and Tasker. Photo: Goodreads

On 17/5, after departing from Camp IV (7.850 m), Boardman and Tasker ascended the Northeast Ridge. Bonington observed their steady progress through a telescope from camp throughout the day, noting no unusual signs. They surmounted the First Pinnacle (approximately 8.170 m), reaching the base of the Second Pinnacle (8.200-8.250 m) around 21h that day, after 14 hours of continuous climbing. It was then that Bonington lost sight of his two teammates.

At 48, Bonington recognized his slower pace at high altitudes. After four nights above 8.000 m, his body was exhausted and severely oxygen-deprived. Bonington realized he would impede their progress if he continued the ascent. Consequently, he remained at Advanced Base Camp, allowing Boardman and Tasker to proceed independently. The two had narrowly survived K2 in 1980, instilling confidence in Bonington.

Their disappearance occurred in a particularly deadly climbing season; 10 people died that year. Just two days prior, at 8.100 m on Everest's North Face, American mountaineer Marty Hoey from Tacoma died when her safety rope detached, causing her to fall approximately 1.800 m into a crevasse; her body was never recovered. Before Boardman and Tasker entered the death zone, Dick Renshaw, the remaining climber of the British team, had been rescued after experiencing stroke-like symptoms.

After about 5 days with no signs, Bonington understood that his two teammates had met with an accident, likely falling into the "Kangshung Face" – Everest's east side. This is a massive, vertical cliff, rising 3.350 m from the base of the Kangshung Glacier (approximately 5.200 m) to Everest's summit (8.848 m).

Diagram showing the "Kangshung Face" area and where Boardman and Tasker were last seen. Photo: Explores Web

Diagram showing the "Kangshung Face" area and where Boardman and Tasker were last seen. Photo: Explores Web

The disappearance of Boardman and Tasker was not immediately announced. Only upon his return did Bonington inform a few British journalists. In a report to the Chinese Mountaineering Association, Bonington recounted "powerlessly watching through binoculars as two teammates vanished at dusk".

"Everyone understood it was a dangerous yet exciting and worthwhile challenge," Bonington said, asserting that his two ill-fated teammates were very close to the summit.

In 1992, a Japanese-Kazakhstani expedition found Boardman's body in a sitting position at approximately 8.200 m. His body was relatively intact, with no signs of severe impact. It is likely he succumbed to exhaustion from hypothermia. Tasker's body has not been found, though some of his equipment appeared between the two and three pinnacles.

This loss profoundly impacted the mountaineering community. Beyond being elite climbers, both were renowned for their literary talent. In their memory, the Boardman Tasker Award for Mountain Literature, a genre dedicated to mountain-related themes, was established as a lasting tribute to two men who lived for the mountains.

Meanwhile, the route that Boardman and Tasker failed to conquer was first ascended in 1995 by the Nihon University expedition from Japan, led by Tadao Kanzaki. This team included 35 Sherpa porters, installed fixed ropes along nearly the entire route, and used supplemental oxygen, a stark contrast to Boardman and Tasker's adventurous style.

Hoai Anh (According to Mirror, Boardman Tasker)