Instead of opting for luxury hotels or domestic flights, Nannette Holliday, a travel writer for xyzAsia magazine, returned to Vietnam in 2024. She embarked on a journey across Vietnam on the Thong Nhat train to explore the provinces from south to north and experience the changes since her previous trip 5 years prior in 2019.

"On the train journey across Vietnam, I admired the beautiful natural landscapes, met friendly people, and experienced the rhythm of daily life along the S-shaped country," Nannette shared.

The Thong Nhat train at Saigon station. Nannette Holliday

The Thong Nhat train at Saigon station. Nannette Holliday

The Australian traveler began her journey at Saigon station in the morning, boarding the SE22 train to Da Nang and choosing a soft sleeper cabin with 4 beds. With the help of a security guard, she managed to get her luggage onto the train as the carriage wasn't aligned with the platform. The traveler noted that the cabin was simple but clean, with air conditioning and beds made with white sheets embroidered with the logo. She booked a "soft sleeper," but found it quite firm. To settle into her cabin, she arranged her luggage neatly, locked her suitcase to the bed leg, and prepared snacks, drinks, a notebook, and a small bottle of wine for the 20-hour journey from Ho Chi Minh City to Da Nang.

On the wall of the bed, a handwritten Vietnamese phrase touched Nannette: "Neu co du anh nang, hoa se no; du yeu thuong, hanh phuc se doi dao," which she asked a fellow passenger to translate into English: "If there is enough sunshine, flowers will bloom; enough love, happiness will abound."

The waiting area at Saigon station. Nannette Holliday

The train passing through the mountains between Ho Chi Minh City and Da Nang. Nannette Holliday

The cabin on the SE22 train. Nannette Holliday

Sharing the cabin with her were three young Vietnamese passengers. Nannette was impressed by a female student on her way home, who frequently got off at stations along the way to buy food like meat buns, sticky rice cakes, and sweet rice cakes, which she readily shared with her cabin mates.

As the train left Ho Chi Minh City, the cityscape gave way to villages, rice paddies, coconut trees, and rivers. The train passed through dark green fields, rocky hills, and wind farms stretching across the hillsides. In the afternoon, as the fiery red sunset painted the western mountains, Nannette opened her wine, enjoyed some biscuits and cheese, and savored the peaceful moment.

The train arrived at Da Nang station at dawn, and Nannette was surprised to find she had to cross two sets of tracks with her luggage to reach the platform. From there, she didn't continue by train immediately but stayed to explore the Da Nang - Hoi An - Hue tourist cluster.

From Da Nang, she traveled by car to Hoi An. Nannette booked a vintage sidecar tour in Hoi An's ancient town, passing through fields, craft villages, vegetable gardens, and the beach. In the ancient town, Nannette strolled through the streets, visiting old houses selling clothes and handmade accessories. A relaxing massage concluded her peaceful stop in Hoi An.

From Hoi An, Nannette hired a private car to travel over Hai Van Pass to Hue. The pass was shrouded in fog, but she could still see Lang Co Bay and the Thong Nhat train winding below. In Hue, she participated in a royal cuisine cooking class and spent a day exploring the city with a private guide.

The cabin on the SE2 train from Hue to Hanoi. Nannette Holliday

The Thong Nhat train passing through Hai Van Pass. Nannette Holliday

A meal served on the SE2 train. Nannette Holliday

Train Street in Hanoi. Nannette Holliday

From Hue, Nannette boarded the SE2 train to Hanoi in the afternoon, again choosing a soft sleeper. Unlike the SE22, the cabin on the SE2 was upgraded with free wifi, power outlets, and individual reading lights for each bed. She didn't need to lock her luggage to the bed leg as she had on the previous trip. Her cabin mates this time were a young man and an elderly woman, both quiet and polite. A hot dinner was served in the cabin for just 40,000 VND, which surprised Nannette. The night was cold, but thanks to extra blankets and pillows from the empty bed, she slept better than on the previous leg.

After about 14 hours, the train arrived in Hanoi in the morning while it was still foggy. At the station, a Singaporean passenger helped Nannette carry her luggage down the stairs. After checking into her hotel, the Australian traveler visited Train Street. Around 3:13 PM, the Thong Nhat train approached, gliding past the shops and cafes, a sight that made all the tourists around "hold their breath and then burst into excitement."

Hanoi was the final stop on Nannette's 36-hour Thong Nhat train experience. The traveler admitted she isn't the adventurous type, but choosing to travel by train across Vietnam was "the right decision."

"The journey allowed me to see the S-shaped country in a close, slow, and in-depth way that airplanes or buses can't offer," Nannette said.

Bich Phuong (xyzAsia)

Photo: Nannette Holliday, Efired