Starting as a small cooking oil store in Taipei, Taiwan, in 1958, Din Tai Fung has grown into a global culinary brand with over 165 restaurants across 13 countries and territories. The xiaolongbao, a soup dumpling, stands as the restaurant's icon, renowned for its strict production process and precision. Chefs meticulously fold each dumpling exactly 18 times, ensuring it weighs 21 g.
"The 18 folds are not just for aesthetics; they ensure the filling and soup have enough space to expand during steaming," shared Aaron Yang, a third-generation Din Tai Fung successor who now oversees its branches in the US.
To qualify as a xiaolongbao chef, individuals must undergo a training program lasting from 2,5 to 3 years. This rigorous training focuses on mastering dough kneading, wrapper rolling, and folding techniques. The hand movements resemble a martial arts performance, with precise finger positioning required for holding the wrapper and creating each fold. Chefs must demonstrate fluidity in their work for diners observing through the open kitchen.
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The world-famous xiaolongbao. Photo: Din Tai Fung |
The world-famous xiaolongbao. Photo: Din Tai Fung
A qualified chef can fold about 8 xiaolongbao in one minute; before reaching this speed and precision, they typically experience around 1,400 failures.
"The work demands a great deal of patience," shared Kan, a chef who has worked at Din Tai Fung for 21 years. Each Din Tai Fung restaurant produces an average of 10,000 xiaolongbao daily, typically with 30 chefs working in shifts.
The wrapper rolling technique is crucial, ensuring a thicker center and thinner edges. The thin edges prevent the dumpling's top from becoming too thick or tough when gathered and folded. A thicker base helps to contain the soup, preventing it from breaking open.
After all 18 folds are completed, a perfect xiaolongbao features a "super small" pinched top, creating an almost invisible seal.
The 18 folds achieve a balance of aesthetics and taste experience. Fewer folds would result in a thicker wrapper at the fold points or an insufficient number of appealing pleats. More folds would cause dough to accumulate at the top, leading to a tough sensation with the first bite.
For nearly 70 years since its inception, the Yang family has consistently strived to preserve the traditional flavor and consistency of their xiaolongbao. Aaron recalled a suggestion to create a beef and cheese dumpling, which they dismissed, believing it would alter the dish's fundamental nature.
"We always believe that the dish must retain the unique characteristics of Taiwan, where the Yang family originated," Aaron stated.
By Tam Anh (according to Michelin, Keropokman, LA Times)
