Dawa Sherpa, a 52-year-old Nepali guide, last week led a Polish climber in an attempt to summit Everest. They were among the last to conquer Everest before the climbing season concluded.

The Polish climber suffered frostbite and could not reach the summit, prompting their group to turn back. On 29/5, while descending from Camp IV at an altitude of 7,900 m to Camp III, the two separated. The Polish climber joined another group returning, while Dawa rested briefly at around 7,500 m.

Dawa’s client safely returned to the base camp, but the guide slipped, falling into a deep crevasse known as the Khumbu Icefall, located below Camp I at approximately 5,500 m. Climbers note that late May weather conditions can transform the Khumbu Icefall into a maze of melting snow bridges, unstable ice streams, and hidden waterways beneath the surface.

With no one nearby to pull him up, Dawa remained trapped in the crevasse for more than two days. "He waited for help in the icy abyss", said Mingmar Tendi Sherpa, who recounted Dawa’s battle for survival.

Medical personnel transport Dawa Sherpa to HAMS hospital in Kathmandu, Nepal, 4/6. Photo: Reuters

Inside the crevasse, Dawa survived on a few remaining biscuits, rationing them carefully, and melted ice for water. He waited for rescue, but no one came to the area.

During this time, rescue forces presumed Dawa had perished on the mountain. Helicopters were deployed for a search, but no trace of him was found.

Later, a small avalanche occurred, with snow falling into the crevasse. This gradually raised Dawa’s position, allowing him to cling to surrounding ledges and climb up.

Eventually, he escaped the crevasse and continued his descent. On the morning of 4/6, a cleaning team from the Sagarmatha Pollution Control Committee (SPCC) ascending the mountain discovered Dawa slowly crawling towards them.

"His hands and feet were frostbitten, but he appeared to be in good health", Mingmar stated.

Positions of camps on the route to Everest summit. Graphic: GAT

While people searched for Dawa, the guide heard helicopters overhead and tried to wave his hands. However, due to his deep confinement in the crevasse, the rescue team could not see him.

Mingmar described Dawa’s survival under such conditions as "a miracle".

"Not everyone can survive in an ice crevasse. The extreme cold, limited oxygen, and high risk of suffocation are immense. Surviving depends not only on physical strength but also on mental fortitude", Mingmar explained.

Local official Pasang Dawa Sherpa of Okhaldhunga said that Dawa may be the first person to self-rescue from a Khumbu Icefall crevasse.

This year’s Everest climbing season saw a record of over 1,000 climbers, with five climbers and guides losing their lives. In April, a massive ice block delayed the route opening to the world’s highest peak, trapping many at base camp.

Ngoc Anh (According to Everest Chronicle, Reuters)