Founded in the late 18th century, Chaumet boasts 13 generations of workshop directors and artisans who have diligently passed down their expertise (savoir-faire) through the centuries.

The brand is known for three iconic jewelry techniques: the pear-shaped diamond, fil-couteau, and trompe l'œil.

Charles Leung, CEO of Chaumet, shared that whenever the Louvre Museum encounters issues with their antique jewelry collection, they send the pieces to Chaumet for restoration. "As the oldest jeweler, possessing traditional techniques and in-depth knowledge, we understand how jewelry was crafted in the 18th century and how to restore them authentically," Leung said.

The first technique is Chaumet's crafting of pear-shaped (or teardrop) diamonds. These diamonds are meticulously selected and refined according to strict standards. Only stones meeting the 4Cs criteria of the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) are deemed suitable. The center stones on the jewelry must be D, E, or F color and recut to a ratio of 1.48-1.58. This is Chaumet's "golden ratio," emphasizing harmony.

This shape was a particular favorite of Empress Josephine, the first wife of Emperor Napoleon Bonaparte. To honor its "first muse," Chaumet named its pear-shaped collection "Josephine." Over time, the pear-shape and Josephine jewelry have become symbols of elegance and boldness for the brand.

Fil-couteau is a technique where the settings of jewelry designs are crafted to be as slender as possible. When refined, they become almost invisible beneath the brilliance of diamonds and gemstones. This is achieved by using a very thin metal bridge to connect different parts of the jewelry, ensuring fluidity and lightness while maintaining a secure connection.

This technique also enhances flexibility in designs with movement, such as the dangling diamond "drops" on some Josephine earrings and necklaces. Notably, the new high jewelry collection, Jewels by Nature, utilizes this technique, allowing 7 Mozambique rubies weighing 14.03 carats to appear suspended among diamonds on the Sword Lily necklace.

To further enhance its renowned pear/teardrop shape, Chaumet developed a third special technique called trompe-l’œil (meaning "optical illusion" in French). This technique combines multiple brilliant-cut diamonds to form a single unit resembling a large pear-shaped diamond. According to the maker, trompe-l’œil is a variation of grain-setting, inspired by Chaumet's famous Bourbon-Parme tiara. Trompe-l’œil is widely applied, particularly in the Josephine collection.

In 2024, the brand introduced the Pearlescent trompe-l’œil necklace in the Chaumet en Scene high jewelry collection. Very large brilliant-cut diamonds and button pearls create the classic pear-shape detail.

Chaumet's three famous techniques are preserved at 12 Place Vendome, Paris. This location houses not only the headquarters, boutique, salons, and high jewelry workshop, but also all or part of a vast library containing approximately 66,000 drawings, 36,000 prints, 360 jewelry pieces, 800 prototypes, and 500 nickel crown replicas.

Yen Chi

Photo: Chaumet