Lo Lo Chai and Then Pa are the two most popular destinations among the nine villages in Lung Cu commune, Ha Giang. Separated by only a few hundred meters, both share similar architecture with earthen wall houses, yin-yang tiled roofs, and hand-stacked stone fences.

According to Le Thanh Hien, a frequent visitor to Lung Cu, the difference lies in the experience. Lo Lo Chai is often bustling, making it ideal to explore on quieter days, whereas Then Pa consistently maintains a peaceful ambiance.

A corner of Then Pa village. Photo: Then Pa village.

Lo Lo Chai: A hub of community tourism

Located approximately one kilometer from Lung Cu flagpole, Lo Lo Chai is a concentrated settlement of the Lo Lo ethnic group. In recent years, this village has become a prominent tourist destination due to its well-planned development and diverse services.

The dominant architecture here features earthen wall houses with yin-yang tiled roofs and manually stacked stone fences. According to statistics from the Lung Cu Commune People's Committee, dozens of households in the village currently operate homestays, creating a dynamic tourism environment.

Le Thanh Hien from Hanoi, a tourist who has returned to Lung Cu for several consecutive years, states that Lo Lo Chai is an ideal choice for those who appreciate convenience. "Evenings here are lively; visitors can easily find beautifully decorated cafes like Cuc Bac and See Me, where they can enjoy drinks while admiring the flagpole sparkling with lights," Hiien said.

Due to its strong service development, Lo Lo Chai is often crowded on weekends and holidays. Room rates here range from 800,000 to 1,500,000 VND per night.

Lung Cu flagpole viewed from Lo Lo Chai. Photo: Supplied.

Local residents. Photo: Supplied.

A corner of Lo Lo village. Photo: Supplied.

Drinking coffee in Lo Lo Chai. Photo: Supplied.

Then Pa: An authentic cultural space

For a more tranquil destination, visitors can walk a few minutes to Then Pa village, nestled among ancient fir trees. In the local dialect, Then Pa means "large field," describing the village's flat valley terrain.

Then Pa is an ancient settlement of the H'Mong community, with a small population of only 11 households, all members of the Vang family clan. This tight-knit family structure helps Then Pa preserve its authentic way of life, with minimal impact from commercialization.

Accommodation services here are not as widespread as in Lo Lo Chai. According to local residents, Then Pa offers two types of lodging: homestays where guests live with host families to experience the culture, and the separate Then Pa Village resort.

In Then Pa, visitors feel time slow down. Activities primarily include beeswax painting, indigo dyeing, or hiking around the buckwheat fields. Service prices here are also more affordable, averaging under 500,000 VND for a night's stay.

A corner of Then Pa village. Photo: Supplied.

Peaceful life in the village. Photo: Then Pa village.

A household operating a homestay. Photo: Supplied.

Inside Then Pa village. Photo: .

Travel information

The journey from Hanoi to Lung Cu is approximately 450 km. The popular route is: Hanoi - Ha Giang Ward - Lung Cu Commune.

The total travel time by car is about 9-10 hours. The 160 km section from Ha Giang Ward to Lung Cu involves winding mountain passes and requires 4-5 hours of travel.

Sleeper buses (ticket prices 250,000 - 350,000 VND per way) are the best option to reach the provincial center, after which visitors can rent a motorbike or car for flexible travel.

Cuisine and specialties

Both villages serve characteristic dishes of the border highlands:

Dishes: Thang co, black chicken hotpot, smoked meat, men men (cornmeal).

Drinks: Leaf-fermented corn wine, au tau porridge (a medicinal dish believed to relieve muscle and joint pain).

Restaurants: Visitors can arrange meals at their homestay or try Khoi restaurant in Lo Lo Chai, which offers a diverse Euro-Asian menu.

Sightseeing

Lo Lo Chai: Ideal for overnight stays, taking photos, enjoying evening interactions, and scenic coffee.

Then Pa: Perfect for morning or evening strolls, delving into H'Mong life, and enjoying tranquility.

With four days and three nights in Lung Cu, moving between the two villages is convenient due to their close proximity.

Suggested itinerary for visitors from Hanoi

Day one: Travel from Hanoi to Ha Giang. Have lunch in Ha Giang Ward. In the afternoon, travel to Lung Cu commune. Overnight in Then Pa.

Day two: Visit Lung Cu flagpole and Then Pa village, try beeswax painting, and horseback riding. Move to Lo Lo Chai for an overnight stay.

Day three: Explore Lo Lo Chai and have lunch in the village. At 1 PM, travel to Dong Van commune center, stopping at Ma Pi Leng Pass and Nho Que River. Overnight in Dong Van.

Day four: Visit several places in Dong Van and Meo Vac market. In the afternoon, travel back to Ha Giang and return to Hanoi in the evening.

Tam Anh