Ba Yen’s hand-pounded squid cake steamed roll shop, located at 36 Doan Thi Diem, Hong Gai ward, has been a familiar breakfast spot in Quang Ninh for over 30 years. Today, it is a popular destination for tourists seeking local flavors.

The secret to the shop’s enduring popularity lies in its signature hand-pounded squid cakes. Cuttlefish caught in the waters of Quang Ninh is the primary ingredient. Each cuttlefish, weighing about one kg, is flash-frozen immediately after being caught and processed five to seven days later. According to Ba Yen, this freezing step is essential for achieving the squid cake's characteristic crispiness; processing fresh squid immediately would result in a dry texture. While squid cakes can be made by machine, hand-pounding is preferred to preserve the squid's unique crispiness.

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The steamed rolls are made from dry rice flour, not the glutinous variety used for cooking rice. The flour undergoes multiple soaking, settling, and straining processes to ensure its purity. The rolls are steamed thinly, resulting in a translucent, chewy texture, similar to tapioca dumpling wrappers. The rolls are only prepared upon a customer's order, ensuring freshness.

A standard serving of the steamed rolls, priced at 35,000 VND, includes a plate of rolls, two pieces of squid cake, dipping sauce, fresh herbs, and fried shallots. The shop offers rolls with various fillings, such as pork and wood ear mushrooms, and plain rolls for those who prefer them without filling. Customers can also choose to add grilled pork or Vietnamese sausage. The dipping sauce is a harmonious blend of fish sauce from Cai Rong, vinegar, sugar, chili, and garlic, offering a balanced salty, sour, sweet, and spicy flavor profile, and is always served warm.

Ba Vu Thi Yen, 81 years old, initially worked as a factory worker in Hai Phong before opening her breakfast shop. In its early days, a plate of steamed rolls with two pieces of squid cake cost 2,000 VND, later increasing to 10,000 VND, and is currently 35,000 VND. Ba Yen noted that the dish gained wider recognition as tourism in Quang Ninh began to flourish around the 2010s. Though she is advancing in age, Ba Yen still stands at the stove, demonstrating the roll-making and squid cake-frying process to visitors. In recent years, she has gradually entrusted the shop's operations to her daughter, but the family ensures that the preparation methods and authentic flavor of the dishes remain consistent with the shop’s beginnings.

The shop operates all day, accommodating a steady stream of customers with efficient service. Its open space and ample parking area contribute to a pleasant dining experience. Huong Giang, a visitor from Hai Phong, commented that while the squid cakes were delicious, the portions were a bit small. She found the steamed rolls to have a soft, chewy texture, though the filling was somewhat sparse, but deemed the price reasonable. For those wishing to take a taste of Quang Ninh home, vacuum-sealed squid cakes are available for purchase at 450,000 VND/kg.

Le Tan