Mrs. Chu Thi Lan’s unnamed banh cuon stall, located at the end of alley 109 Ton Duc Thang, has been operating for 38 years. Due to the narrow alley, late-night diners must find their own motorcycle parking and secure their belongings.

For nearly four decades, an unassuming banh cuon stall has been a fixture in Hanoi's late-night culinary scene. Operated by Mrs. Chu Thi Lan, this unnamed eatery, situated deep within alley 109 Ton Duc Thang, opens its doors nightly from 21h until 4h the following day, a testament to its enduring legacy.

Mrs. Lan stated that the stall was once a popular gathering spot for "dan choi" (party-goers) and even where the parents of a famous singer first met. The stall opens from 21h until 4h the next day. According to the owner, before Covid-19, customers often waited 30 minutes for their turn. However, customer numbers have declined due to economic difficulties and the availability of more late-night dining options.

Mrs. Lan recalls a bustling past when her stall was a popular gathering spot for "dan choi" (party-goers), even serving as the serendipitous meeting place for the parents of a renowned singer. Before Covid-19, customers routinely endured 30-minute waits for a taste of her freshly steamed rice rolls. However, the current economic climate and a proliferation of other late-night dining choices have led to a noticeable decline in customer traffic.

The banh cuon filling consists solely of minced lean pork, without wood ear mushrooms, to prevent diners from feeling bloated when eating late at night. Mrs. Lan recalled that during its peak, the stall used 5-7 kg of meat and hundreds of kilograms of rice each night.

The essence of Mrs. Lan's banh cuon lies in its simplicity and quality. The filling features only minced lean pork, deliberately excluding wood ear mushrooms to prevent diners from feeling bloated during late-night meals. During its peak, the stall would consume 5-7 kg of meat and hundreds of kilograms of rice every night, a clear indication of its former popularity.

The intimate customer area, roughly 20 m2, utilizes the family's living room, providing space for only two to three groups at a time. Tables are equipped with vinegar and chili, allowing diners to customize their dipping sauce, which Mrs. Lan prepares using basic ingredients like fish sauce and sugar.

Ms. Pham Thi Diu, a local resident, shared that her family has been patrons of the stall for generations. "The banh cuon is delicious and soft, and the dipping sauce is perfectly balanced. I enjoy this space, even though many might find it inconvenient," Ms. Diu remarked.

The owner explained that she must continue selling at night because the alley is narrow, leaving no space during the day, while external rental costs are too high. "On slow days, I sell one or two servings and then doze off," she said. Despite this, she maintains the principle of steaming the banh cuon only when a customer orders, never preparing it in advance, to ensure each serving is hot.

Mrs. Lan explains her commitment to night operations stems from practical constraints: the alley is too narrow for daytime business, and external rental costs are prohibitive. Even on quiet evenings, when she might sell only one or two servings before dozing off, her dedication to freshness remains. She insists on steaming each portion of banh cuon only upon order, guaranteeing a hot meal for every customer.

Mrs. Lan stated that the banh cuon is made from rice flour, without borax. "Even small children or new mothers can eat it," the owner added.

The banh cuon is made from rice flour and is free of borax, a detail Mrs. Lan highlights to assure customers of its safety. "Even small children or new mothers can eat it," she states, emphasizing its wholesome nature.

The thick rice paper wrapper, loosely folded, means the filling can easily come undone. However, the banh cuon is fragrant, with a generous amount of meat, and retains its softness.

While the thick, loosely folded rice paper wrapper can sometimes cause the filling to come undone, the banh cuon is noted for its fragrant aroma, generous meat portion, and consistent softness.

A full serving, including banh cuon and cha que (cinnamon pork sausage), costs 60.000 VND, with an added egg for 10.000 VND. Many diners consider this price quite high but still return due to the appealing taste and limited late-night dining choices.

A complete serving, featuring banh cuon and cha que (cinnamon pork sausage), is priced at 60.000 VND, with an additional egg costing 10.000 VND. Many customers consider these prices relatively high, yet they continue to return, drawn by the appealing taste and the scarcity of other late-night dining options in the area.

The owner remembers the order of customers. Once a table has received all its dishes, she announces "dung phuc vu" (serving stopped) before moving to the next group. Those wishing for additional servings must wait for the subsequent turn.

Mrs. Lan efficiently manages her customers, remembering the order of arrival. Once a table has been fully served, she announces "dung phuc vu" (serving stopped) before attending to the next group, ensuring that those desiring additional servings patiently await their turn.

Mrs. Lan stated that despite declining business, the stall remains open year-round to serve customers, closing only for a few days during Tet (Lunar New Year).

Despite current business challenges, Mrs. Lan’s stall maintains its commitment to customers, operating year-round and closing only for a few days during Tet (Lunar New Year).

Hoai Anh

Photo: Hoang Giang