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Tuesday, 29/7/2025 | 07:01 GMT+7

Mo village tofu: A 2,000-year-old Hanoi tradition

Mo village tofu, renowned for its smooth, white, and rich flavor, boasts a history intertwined with the ancient land of Ke Mo, Thang Long - Hanoi, dating back 2,000 years.

Beans are poured into the grinder, with water added gradually to achieve the desired consistency—neither too thick nor too thin._*Italicized*

Tuong Mai ward is famous for its tofu production, known as "Mo village tofu." Its origins trace back to the era of the Trung sisters (around 20 BC to 40 AD), attributed to the skilled general Nguyen Tam Trinh.

According to the Hanoi Party Committee's website, Nguyen Tam Trinh, the progenitor of tofu making in Mai Dong village (now part of Hoang Mai district, Hanoi), was a general under the Trung sisters, hailing from Thanh Hoa province.

Captivated by the scenery of blooming apricot and plum blossoms, he established a training ground in the area, teaching locals martial arts for self-defense. He also introduced soybean cultivation and the craft of tofu making, initially to sustain his troops. Locals believe that the pristine water of Mo village contributes to the tofu's unique flavor—soft, fragrant, and rich. Nguyen Tam Trinh is revered as the tutelary deity of Mai Dong village.

Today, just over 10 households in Mai Dong village continue this tradition, including the family of Trieu Thi Hoang Yen, who has dedicated over 50 years to the craft. "The tofu-making process involves five steps. To meet market demand, we have to start work between 1 and 2 AM, working continuously for 12 hours," Yen shared.

Mechanical grinding and filtering have significantly reduced the manual labor involved in traditional methods. The separated soybean pulp is used as animal feed._*Italicized*

Plump, golden soybeans are carefully selected for tofu production.

Dried soybeans are thoroughly washed, removing shriveled beans and impurities, before being soaked for 4 hours to ensure even expansion for grinding. Thorough washing ensures smooth soy milk, preserving its natural sweetness.

To achieve firm, well-formed tofu blocks, a weight of 1.5-2 kg is placed on top of the curds in the mold, pressing them for 5 minutes to set the shape. Larger blocks may require longer pressing times._*Italicized*

A household can produce 40-50 kg of tofu daily. Tofu blocks are priced around 2,500 VND each, while soy milk sells for 5,000 VND per bag. Locals often purchase directly from the producers to ensure the highest quality._*Italicized*

The ground soy milk is then mechanically pressed, passing through 2-3 layers of cloth to filter out any remaining pulp, yielding pure soy milk.

After filtering, the soy milk is boiled at high heat. Once boiled, it's poured into medium-sized pots or jars, seasoned with a pinch of salt, and then a natural starter culture is added to coagulate the milk into smooth, white tofu curds.

The curds are scooped out, wrapped in thin cheesecloth, and placed into stainless steel or wooden molds to be pressed into tofu blocks. Yen typically arranges about 30 blocks per batch.

"The precise proportions depend on the temperature and weather, relying on experience and intuition. There's no fixed formula," Yen explained.

The finished tofu blocks are still warm when removed from the molds. If sold immediately, they are displayed on trays. If sold later, they are submerged in cold water to maintain freshness for the afternoon market.

Yen sells most of her tofu to local restaurants and eateries specializing in bun dau mam tom (vermicelli noodles with tofu and shrimp paste).

Mo village tofu can be enjoyed warm with shrimp paste or incorporated into dishes like fried tofu with scallions or bun dau mam tom. When fried, it develops a crispy exterior while retaining a chewy, rich interior.

Hoang Giang

By VnExpress: https://vnexpress.net/nghe-dau-phu-lang-mo-2-000-nam-tai-ha-noi-4919685.html
Tags: Mo tofu village craft tofu

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