Chi Dep, a steamed baguette eatery on Co Giang Street in Phu Nhuan District, has a simple storefront with low tables and chairs set up outside. Inside, bamboo steamers and a cabinet holding various toppings hint at the culinary magic within. According to the owner, the eatery opened in 2009 and attracts hundreds of local and international diners daily, curious to try this unique take on Vietnamese banh mi.

The eatery has preserved its steamed baguette recipe for 16 years. The dish features day-old, cooled baguettes, steamed to a soft, fragrant texture, and served with shredded pork skin, beef, minced pork, shredded cassava, scallion oil, peanuts, fried onions, fresh herbs, and a special sweet and sour fish sauce. It's typically wrapped in fresh herbs, similar to how banh xeo (Vietnamese crepe) is eaten.

Steamed baguette wrapped in fresh herbs, similar to how banh xeo is eaten. Photo: Ha Phuong

The current owner, 34-year-old Thuy, explained that the eatery was originally named "Steamed Baguette 83." However, many customers referred to her as "chi dep" (beautiful sister), leading to the name change to "Steamed Baguette Chi Dep."

Chef Nguyen Thanh Cuong, winner of MasterChef Vietnam 2015, explained that steamed baguettes originated during the subsidy period or post-war years in southern Vietnam. People resourcefully used stale bread to create a warm, affordable, and nutritious meal.

"People in old Saigon used to repurpose stale baguettes to avoid waste," Cuong said. "They would cut the bread into small pieces, drizzle it with bone broth or coconut milk, and steam it until soft. Then, they would add toppings like minced pork, ground meat, pate, scallion oil, fried pork fat, or shredded pork skin." He added that some families still maintain this tradition.

Chi Dep has brought this traditional Saigon dish to a wider audience, including both modern locals and international tourists. Thuy shared that before opening the eatery in Ho Chi Minh City, her mother experimented with various meat stir-fries, shredded pork skin recipes, and fish sauce blends to perfect the dish. She passed down her experience and recipes to her children, ensuring the legacy continues.

Baguettes are cut into small pieces before steaming. Photo: Ha Phuong

According to Thuy, one serving typically uses one baguette, though she uses about one and a half for larger orders. The bread is cut into small pieces before being steamed in bamboo steamers with a spritz of water to maintain moisture and softness. Thuy explained that the bread steams for 5 to 10 minutes to achieve the perfect texture. As the bread in the steamer runs low, she adds more to ensure a continuous supply for customers. All the accompanying dishes are made fresh daily using her family's recipes.

The eatery is open from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily, but Thuy starts preparing ingredients as early as 5 a.m. Despite the limited space, the eatery enjoys a steady stream of customers, offering both dine-in and takeaway options. Thuy says they serve over 50 portions of steamed baguettes each day, with most customers also ordering goi cuon (fresh spring rolls), banh tam bi (shredded pork skin vermicelli noodles), or tra tac (kumquat tea). A serving of steamed baguette with shredded pork skin, beef, or minced pork costs between 55,000 and 75,000 VND, depending on the size.

Low tables and chairs are set up in front of the eatery. Photo: Ha Phuong

Many local customers are regulars, with some traveling from afar to enjoy this nostalgic taste. Hong Thuy, a resident of Binh Thanh District, said, "The dish has maintained its original flavor for decades. The price is reasonable, and it's perfect for an afternoon snack with family, especially with kids." She added that she often contacts the eatery before arriving to ensure a seat.

Hoang Tien, 33, from District 5, said one serving is enough to fill him up. "I've been eating steamed baguettes since I was a child, and I've always wanted to rediscover that familiar taste in the city," Tien said. "I stumbled upon information about this eatery online, tried it, and have been a regular for two years now. The rich fish sauce and the beautiful, neat presentation make it a winner."

International tourists also visit Chi Dep to experience a different take on Vietnamese banh mi. German tourist Christian Weizenegger, who ordered a large serving of steamed baguette with beef, praised the sweet and sour fish sauce. He found the combination of soft bread, stir-fried beef, and the sauce to be harmonious and flavorful.

"The typical Vietnamese baguette sandwich is already familiar to me and many other foreign visitors," Chris said. "I think we should introduce this steamed baguette, an interesting variation that I believe they will love."

Steamed baguette eateries are relatively rare in Ho Chi Minh City. Although unique, the dish is often made quickly at home as a light meal rather than for commercial purposes. Besides Chi Dep, diners can try Co Tien's steamed baguette with coconut milk on Nguyen Duy Street in District 8. It opens at 11 a.m. daily, with each serving costing around 35,000 VND.

Ha Phuong