Greeks and Turks have long disagreed over the origins of various dishes, from coffee and stuffed grape leaves to baklava – a legacy of centuries of coexistence under the Ottoman Empire. Now, Turks are frustrated, claiming Greeks are taking credit for a soup they call iskembe, considered a long-standing part of their national culture. Iskeme, a rich and flavorful tripe soup, is known as patsa in Greece.

Restaurant owner Tsarouhas has compiled an extensive, detailed dossier with the support of a local cultural organization and Lena Oflidis, author of the only book documenting the soup's history, to include patsa in Greece's cultural heritage catalog. At Tsarouhas's restaurant, dozens of diners visit at all hours, especially in the early morning, to enjoy patsa. Many believe this chili-infused soup helps soothe the stomach after a night of overindulgence.

Greek patsa tripe soup. Photo: Greek Food

In the kitchen, chef Pantazis Koukoumvris swiftly works with a knife next to large simmering pots, where trotters and tripe are thoroughly stewed. Koukoumvris believes the recipe for this dish was adopted by the Byzantines from ancient Greeks, then passed down to the Ottomans. Tsarouhas also points out that the patsa recipe was mentioned in the Odyssey epic, during the feast Penelope, wife of Odysseus, prepared for her suitors on the day her husband returned from his long journey. According to him, this passage describes stuffed tripe with animal fat and blood. "If that isn't patsa, what else could it be?" he questioned. Although the Turkish side claims it as their invention, Tsarouhas shows no concern. He suggests the other side can try to prove their claim if they have sufficient grounds. "No one is stopping them from trying," he said, confident he has ample grounds to protect and recognize the dish. He believes the two countries will not be divided by this, as the flavor of the dish itself is what connects them.

However, "culinary connection" is not what Ali Turkmen has in mind. The 59-year-old Turkish restaurant owner believes this dish holds historical and cultural significance for Turks, even though in Greece, it is also considered a familiar late-night or post-drinking meal. "Just like baklava and many other things, they want to claim it as their own. Tripe is something very unique to Turks," Turkmen said regarding Greece's efforts. But it will be difficult for them to claim ownership of something that is inherently Turkish, according to Turkmen, because this dish has been part of their culture for hundreds of years.

Turkish Iskeme soup. Photo: Freepik

In Istanbul, Ali Ohtamis manages the kitchen at Turkmen's Alem Iskembe restaurant, a venue specializing in traditional soup in the Kiziltoprak neighborhood. Every day, starting at 4 a.m., Ohtamis begins boiling tripe after thorough cleaning. According to him, the cooking process lasts 8-9 hours before the meat is cut according to each diner's preference, large or small. While both Greek and Turkish versions are based on a rich, garlicky broth, Turkish iskembe uses only tripe.

Turkish media has accused Greece of "appropriating" a dish considered a national pride. News portal Onedio cited the 17th-century traveler Evliya Celebi's writings, which describe vendors selling tripe and trotters soup in Istanbul, as evidence that this dish has a 400-year history in Turkey. Murat Pajik, a regular at Alem Iskembe, expressed a firm view that Turkey should not accept Greece's move. "Measures must be taken. Tripe soup is one of the dishes we should promote to the world," Pajik stated.

Meanwhile, in Greece, Christos Mousoulis offers a different perspective. A regular at Tsarouhas's restaurant, he explained that patsa has been prepared traditionally in Greek families for generations. "The dish might be similar. But we grew up with Greek patsa," he said.

By Anh Minh (According to SCMP)