Five prominent Patek Philippe Nautilus models over 50 years

Five iconic Patek Philippe Nautilus models reflect 50 years of evolution, from their symbolic design to mechanical breakthroughs and allure in the collector's market.

The blueprint of the first Nautilus is pictured. This timepiece, manufactured by Patek Philippe with reference number 3700-1A, embodied the original design by Gerald Genta, a renowned high-end watch designer.

The Stern family, owners of Patek Philippe since 1932, have preserved the design language of this watch line almost entirely to this day. The 42 mm case size earned the model the nickname “Jumbo,” which later became a common term for large-sized sports watch designs. While Gerald Genta’s original drawing featured a plain dial, the 3700-1A version was stamped with horizontal grooves, creating a signature detail for the collection.

In its initial advertisement, Patek Philippe likened the Nautilus to "an ancient sword forged for a knight that will stay with them for life." For the Swiss manufacturer, the watch served as a "sword" to counter the quartz movement during the "quartz crisis" that threatened the luxury watch industry.

The Ref. 3700 marked a turning point by offering a fashionable and versatile mechanical watch option, featuring a steel case with an integrated bracelet. This model’s historical significance is evident as the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, Vacheron Constantin 222 (predecessor to the Overseas), and Patek Philippe Nautilus collectively formed the "holy trinity of luxury steel sports watches," a concept familiar to high-end watch enthusiasts.

The Patek Philippe Nautilus Flyback Chronograph Ref. 5980/1 debuted in 2006, coinciding with the Nautilus collection's 30th anniversary. This model, reference 5980/1, marked the first time the Nautilus line integrated a flyback chronograph function, aligning with the design's sporty direction.

The design drew attention with its chronograph sub-dial positioned on a co-axial system, featuring two rhodium-plated copper sub-dials for 30 and 60 minutes, finished with sandblasting. The pushers are arranged on either side of the crown guards, evoking the "porthole hinges" – a signature Nautilus detail.

Patek Philippe equipped this model with its in-house developed and manufactured CH 28-520 movement. Its reception from collectors encouraged the brand to expand additional functions within the Nautilus line in subsequent years.

The Patek Philippe Nautilus Grand Complication Ref. 5740/1G-001 is the first "Grand Complication" Nautilus model. The white gold Ref. 5740 version, launched in 2018, combines the sporty aesthetic of the Nautilus with the high-end craftsmanship of the "Grand Complication" series, Patek Philippe’s group of watches with complex mechanical structures.

The timepiece features a perpetual calendar, which the brand introduced as the thinnest perpetual calendar in its catalog, thanks to the ultra-thin 240 Q movement, measuring 3,88 mm thick, resulting in a total case thickness under 9 mm. The perpetual calendar mechanism is one of the brand's key achievements. Its display layout is well-balanced, easy to read, and harmonizes with the overall design, with meticulous finishing on each sub-dial.

This version demonstrates Patek Philippe's commitment to continuous innovation by integrating a complex calendar mechanism, along with its corresponding display system, into the distinctive Nautilus design, a product line that experienced strong growth in the 2010s.

The Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711 Tiffany Blue is one of the Nautilus versions that has garnered significant attention in the collector's market. While the brand controls the listed price, auction prices reflect collector interest through direct competition among buyers.

In 2021, the Ref. 5711 with a "Tiffany Blue" dial set an auction record of 6,5 million USD for a Nautilus. This figure underscores the model's exceptional appeal in the luxury watch market.

The watch’s appeal extends beyond Phillips auctions. Although the record was surpassed in 2024 by the Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711/1500A, which fetched 7,6 million USD, the collaboration between Patek Philippe and Tiffany & Co. continues to attract attention, frequently appearing on the wrists of numerous celebrities across various fields. Besides Leonardo DiCaprio, the model has been seen on LeBron James, Ed Sheeran, and Bernard Arnault.

The distinctive Tiffany & Co. turquoise blue on the dial creates a unique identifier for this version. This detail rarely appears on Patek Philippe watches, further solidifying the model's allure among collectors. Photo: Hypebeast

When Patek Philippe announced the discontinuation of the Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A in 2021, the news garnered widespread attention from the watch collecting community. This development highlights the Ref. 5711/1A's significant place in the collection's history, including the version with serial number 010.

The Ref. 5711/1A inherits the Nautilus's characteristic design features from 1976, including a steel case and integrated bracelet, an octagonal bezel with rounded corners, two lateral protrusions resembling portholes, and a horizontal embossed dial with applied hour markers and a date window at the 3 o’clock position. Version 010 features a gradient blue dial with a faded black rim, recalling the earliest Nautilus models.

The discontinuation of the Ref. 5711/1A also marked a transitional phase in the product catalog. Patek Philippe subsequently introduced the Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5811/1G with a white gold case as its replacement. In this context, the Ref. 5711/1A continues to be referenced as one of the most iconic versions of the Nautilus line.

By Nhat Le

Photos: Patek Philippe

In Vietnam, Patek Philippe is officially distributed by Cong ty Quoc te Tam Son.

Patek Philippe Boutique Hanoi:

Shop 1 - Sofitel Metropole Hotel,

15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem Ward, Hanoi

Opening hours: 9:30 AM – 7:00 PM

Tel: +84 24 3828 1010

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Floor 1, Union Square,

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