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The unveiling of the Autumn/Winter 2025 haute couture designs took place at IRCAM (Institute for Research and Coordination in Acoustics/Music) on 10/7. The runway featured an art installation of illuminated multicolored inflatable balls, creating a serene atmosphere. The event was part of Paris Couture Fashion Week, held from 7/7 to 10/7. |
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The Players collection reflects Kevin Germanier's experimentation with patterns, volume, and color, combined with a festive spirit. According to WWD, for this show, Germanier collaborated with two designers who, like him, champion sustainable fashion by transforming waste into applied art. Nguyen Tien Truyen was responsible for shaping and embroidering plastic bottles, while Gustavo Silvestre, based in Brazil, created palm fibers from old plastic bags. |
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Models walk the runway in the Germanier x Nguyen Tien Truyen show. |
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Nguyen Tien Truyen said he and the Swiss designer met through Instagram. "Germanier was impressed by the rebellious and unconventional spirit in the way I handle materials and structure in my outfits," he said. Recognizing similarities in their aesthetic and creative thinking, the two collaborated on the Eurovision Song Contest 2025 and this collection. |
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Combined with the crane motif are patterns and shapes depicting mutated flowers and surreal animals. These are hand-embroidered and intricately shaped on silk, velvet, feathers, metallic plastic, and pearl crystals. The garments demand complex techniques and high precision. |
The 27 designs draw inspiration from a surreal world and fantastical creatures. Nguyen Tien Truyen's personal style is showcased in 12 of the pieces. He chose the red-crowned crane as a recurring motif. The crane symbolizes longevity and is the same image that helped the designer win Project Runway Vietnam in 2016.
"I wanted to retain this symbol as a link between the past and present, between my beginnings in Vietnam and my first foray into haute couture in Paris," he said.
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The collection took over two months to create. Nguyen Tien Truyen said the biggest challenge was constructing the shapes and structure. "There was no room for error, as even a few millimeters off could cause the entire garment to collapse," he said. Transporting the bulky dresses to France caused some damage, which the designer had to quickly repair backstage. |
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A fishtail design made from organza and embellished with Swarovski crystals. |
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A thigh-high slit dress with a corset structure and contrasting color blocks created from thousands of stones. |
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Vogue praised the collection's visual appeal and technique, commenting: "Melted plastic bottles are then molded into extensions on some of the designs." |
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Kevin Germanier is known as the "King of Color" in French fashion. He has worked with prominent figures such as Taylor Swift, Sunmi, and Björk.
Nguyen Tien Truyen, 32, from Ho Chi Minh City, is a graduate of Hoa Sen University. In his 10 years in the industry, he has held several solo shows and presented collections at Vietnam International Fashion Week. He has designed performance costumes for international stars such as singers Cat Khac Tuyen Dat (China) and Efendi (Azerbaijan).
Y Ly
Photo: Gorunway