A 'slow' Christmas in ho chi minh city's ancient churches for foreign visitors

Filipino tourist daryl ann balataria relives childhood memories of attending mass with her parents while experiencing the simple Christmas atmosphere at cha tam church.

The female tourist rested at a restaurant next to Notre Dame Cathedral. The establishment, located in an old French house surrounded by ancient trees, offered a peaceful escape from the bustling atmosphere outside.

Daryl Ann Balataria, a tourist from the Philippines, spent her Christmas holiday in Ho Chi Minh City by visiting ancient churches rather than bustling commercial centers. She chose to experience a slower-paced festive atmosphere, a contrast to the usual vibrancy of her homeland.

She began her journey at Tan Dinh Church, one of the city's oldest religious structures. She selected a cafe opposite the church on Hai Ba Trung street to observe and take photos from its balcony. Daryl noted that all floors of the cafe were filled with foreign visitors, even though it was not a weekend.

Daryl and her friend ordered a light brunch, including two drinks, a salad, and pastries, totaling nearly one million VND. She noted that dining prices here were three to four times higher than traditional eateries, but "acceptable" due to the central location and private ambiance.

Construction on Tan Dinh Church began in 1870 and it was inaugurated in 1876. The church features a Gothic style combined with Roman and Baroque elements, distinguished by its pink hue, repainted in 1957.

The church is open for external visits, while the sanctuary is accessible only during mass hours. Daryl arrived in the afternoon and could not enter for a service. She mentioned that last year, she had attended mass at Tan Dinh Church with her parents. This Christmas, the church was more elaborately decorated, with parishioners busy preparing for the main ceremony.

Daryl prayed before the main service. The simple atmosphere of Cha Tam Church reminded her of childhood memories of attending church with her parents. Daryl stated that on the evening of 24/12, she would return to this church with her fiance to celebrate Christmas before leaving Ho Chi Minh City and continuing their year-end holiday in Hong Kong.

Daryl spent time strolling through the grounds, pausing before a memorial wall dedicated to the deceased.

"Standing before the names etched on the wall moved me, reminding me of my family and loved ones, especially during Christmas; that moment was very peaceful," she shared.

Daryl then moved to the city center to visit Notre Dame Cathedral of Saigon, a landmark of the city.

The Filipino tourist and other foreign visitors inquired about attending mass inside the cathedral but were denied entry as an invitation was required beforehand.

Daryl walked around Cong Xa Paris Square, admiring the exterior of the cathedral. The Filipino tourist found it unusual to see crowds spreading mats on the sidewalk opposite the structure, waiting for the church lights to illuminate.

She was also impressed by how Vietnamese people celebrate Christmas, despite it not being a holiday as deeply rooted in local culture as it is in the Philippines.

Daryl concluded her journey at Cha Tam Church (Church of Saint Francis Xavier), located at the end of Hoc Lac street in the Cho Lon ward. The taxi ride from Notre Dame Cathedral to this final destination took about 30 minutes due to traffic, but Daryl "felt familiar" with it, comparing it to rush hour commutes in the Philippines.

Visiting the century-old church for the first time, the tourist was impressed by its blend of Asian and European architecture.

"From the outside, the sanctuary looks like a Chinese-style pagoda," Daryl remarked. The vibrant Chinese community atmosphere outside the church also piqued her curiosity.

Cha Tam Church, initiated in 1900 and completed in 1902 under the guidance of Father Pierre d'Assou (Cha Tam), blends European Gothic architecture with East Asian elements. Its three-arched gate features curved glazed tile roofs, red-painted pillars inscribed with Chinese characters, and lotus flower decorations.

The structure is open for parishioners and visitors to explore and pray freely. Daryl arrived about one hour before the evening service, finding only a few other foreign visitors, a stark contrast to the crowds at Notre Dame Cathedral and Tan Dinh Church.