Located on the tropical island of Bukasa, over 960 km from the coast, lies Nanziri waterfall. This unique cascade emerges directly from a cliff face, tumbles down the mountainside, and eventually merges with Lake Victoria, Africa's largest lake, before flowing into the Nile River. Visitors to Nanziri must be accompanied by a guide, as local residents assert that it is nearly impossible to find on one's own.
Through a recommendation from Jonathan, CNN travel writer Griffin Shea connected with Mukaka Sharifa, a spirit medium who claims to communicate with ancestral spirits. Sharifa then arranged for her brother, Micky, to guide both her and Shea.
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A fishing village in the Ssese archipelago. Fishermen rely on ferries to transport ice daily to keep fish fresh, then take the fish to Entebbe to sell at market. CNN
The journey commenced on an orange "water bus," transporting passengers, livestock such as goats and chickens, and essential goods to Bukasa. Upon arriving on the island, they continued their travel by motorbike, carrying tents and backpacks. Before reaching the waterfall, they made an overnight stop at the island's sacred temple.
The temple guardian requested that both Shea and Sharifa perform a water purification ritual before entering. He referred to the temple as a "palace," a dwelling place for the spirits of ancient Buganda kingdom kings. Following a welcoming ceremony that involved 8 roasted coffee beans and a shared drink, symbolizing friendship, Shea retired early to prepare for the next day's exploration of the waterfall at dawn.
As night fell, the temple gradually filled with pilgrims from various regions, all seeking health and good fortune. Some had already bathed at the base of the waterfall, while others, like Shea, walked silently through the night to arrive in time for the morning ritual.
Upon waking in the morning, Shea observed that the temple floor was covered with sleeping pilgrims. Outside, many others lay on the grass, fully clothed and without blankets. She estimated there were at least 40 people.
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Nanziri waterfall with white foam. CNN
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Lake Victoria viewed from the island. CNN
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The sacred temple on Bukasa island. CNN
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Inside the sacred temple. CNN
Guided by the temple guardian, the group of visitors departed the temple before dawn, traveling by motorbike along dirt roads towards the waterfall. At a certain point, he instructed them to stop, remove their shoes, and walk the remaining distance barefoot.
The temple guardian, leaning on a staff, walked ahead, almost gliding over the rough, rocky path. Shea followed closely, feeling anxious about potential cuts from sharp stones or snake bites. They continued their trek until dawn. The sunrise on the island was not as dramatic as the vivid images Shea typically associated with the African savanna. Instead, the sky gradually brightened, stars slowly faded, and trees and rock formations gradually emerged into view under the soft morning light.
Finally, they arrived at the waterfall. The temple guardian and Micky stood at the lake's edge. Above them, water gushed directly from a rock formation, with no visible river upstream. Shea described the scene as "like someone had opened a giant faucet and forgotten to turn it off."
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Micky (left) and the temple guardian stand beside the sacred waterfall on Bukasa island. CNN
The waterfall's water was crystal clear; Shea reached out to touch the cool, bubbling stream. Below the lake, the water cascaded further, disappearing into the surrounding forest before ultimately flowing into the vast Lake Victoria. The area around the waterfall is not large enough to accommodate many visitors simultaneously, yet the guardian remains hopeful that it will attract more people one day.
The temple requires additional funding for its upkeep, and the guardian and his family currently subsist primarily on donations from pilgrims. Presently, the site mainly welcomes pilgrims or individuals who manage to find their way to this unmarked location in the wilderness. Visitors hope to depart with improved health compared to when they arrived.





