Located on Hoe Nhai slope in Ba Dinh ward, Ba Xuan's banh cuon stall has been listed in the "Michelin Selected" guide for four consecutive years (from 2023 to 2026), recommended as a worthy dining spot by Michelin.

The family of Nguyen Thi Bac (Ba Xuan, named after her husband) opened the eatery approximately 40 years ago. Initially, the couple sold handmade pho noodles but added banh cuon to increase their income. Thanks to their skill in selecting and grinding rice, the banh cuon quickly attracted many customers, leading the couple to fully transition to this business.

Today, the banh cuon business is run by their two daughters, who take turns managing the morning and afternoon shifts. Bui Thi Kim Lan, Ba Xuan's daughter, shared that she always remembers her father's dying wish: "to preserve the family's traditional craft."

Consequently, she meticulously oversees every step daily, from grinding the rice flour with a stone mortar to preparing ingredients. All staff members are family, simplifying oversight and task delegation. For ingredients like meat and vegetables, Lan's family relies on a single, trusted supplier they have used for decades to ensure quality.

What impresses many customers from the very first bite is the thin, smooth, and flexible texture of the banh cuon wrapper. According to Lan, the secret lies in using Cao Bang rice, ground and mixed according to a special family recipe.

"Grinding flour by hand with a stone mortar is more strenuous and time-consuming, but in return, the flour achieves the required fineness, making the banh cuon delicious after steaming," she explained.

Lan does not pre-steam the banh cuon; she prepares the batter as customers order. The filling consists of minced pork sauteed with wood ear mushrooms and shiitake mushrooms. The fried shallots are hand-sliced and fried by the family to maintain their crispness and prevent burning. The accompanying pork sausage (gio cha) is sourced from Uoc Le village, bringing an authentic Hanoi banh cuon flavor.

In addition to the traditional banh cuon, the rich, soft-boiled egg banh cuon is also a favorite among many diners.

A full serving of banh cuon (including a plate of banh cuon with meat filling and accompanying gio cha) costs 50,000 VND, while egg banh cuon is 20,000 VND per portion. While the prices are not exceptionally low, given its central Old Quarter location and consistent quality, many diners consider it a worthwhile experience.

On Google Maps, the eatery has a rating of 4,3/5 stars from over 1,800 reviews. Many customers provide positive feedback about the food quality. However, during peak hours, wait times can exceed 20 minutes. The narrow space and lack of parking are common complaints among diners.

{"caption_all":null,"caption_items":["Tuan Anh, 22 years old, shared that despite waiting nearly 20 minutes in heavy rain for a seat, the hot plate of banh cuon with fatty cha more than made up for it. While the food was delicious, he noted that the staff's attitude was a drawback.","Thanks to its inclusion in the "Michelin Selected" list, the eatery attracts many international customers, according to Lan. Two South Korean tourists, visiting for the first time on Michelin's recommendation, initially found themselves confused about how to eat the dish. However, after being instructed to dip the banh cuon generously into the dipping sauce, they thoroughly enjoyed the meal."]}"

The eatery can accommodate about 15 customers at once with two rows of stainless steel tables indoors. The seating is tight, and customers sometimes have to squeeze past each other. However, many are impressed by the consistently clean preparation area.

Regardless of the weather, the eatery remains packed during peak times, such as early mornings, lunch, or dinner hours.

Minh Trang